Sunday, January 22, 2012

Ranger beads

These beads are used for counting paces. Start with all the beads on top. (There are 9 on top and 4 on the bottom.) Start walking with the left foot and every other time the right foot strikes, slide a yellow bead down. When there are no yellow beads left, the next time, slide the yellow beads up and an orange bead down.

Each count would be 4 times your pace for 1 step. In my case, it's 10 feet.

So this picture shows I've gone 230 paces or 230 feet.

Each person will have to calibrate them with a known distance.





Here is a great video on making them. There are a couple tricks, so it's worth watching.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Handy Ruler

Light pole solution


Recall the original task was to find the bearing and range between two poles at a distance without going more than 50 feet from the  pole in the lower left.

So, I made a special 4 circle protractor which would be centered on the home pole and aligned on the cardinal directions. The center of each protractor is a scaled 50 feet from the home pole. Then I'd take 5 bearings to both P1 and P2. one from each protractor. This should locate the position of P1 and P2 very accurately. Then it's a simple matter of drawing a courseline between the two poles. Laying a protractor on one to determine the bearing and measuring the distance.

This sort of exercise is not without practical use. I've decided to make a clear protractor for 1:24000 maps with a diameter of 1 mile. It can be printed on frosted clear plastic you can write on. Marks could be made with a pencil to orient the protractor so magnetic headings can be read directly from the protractor.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Light pole brain teaser

You are in a parking lot with poles oriented something like this. It's a freehand drawing, so measurements are not accurate. You have 50 feet of parachute line plus enough to tie it to the pole.

Using a compass and the parachute line, draw the azimuth lines and distances shown.

Do not go outside the 50 foot circle.

(This is a tough one.)

Time limit: 1 hour.

Accuracy:

No more than 8 feet error on any distance or 5 degree error on any bearing.

.
To solve it, I used this diagram. The vetical scales and horizontal scales are not the same wideth. Just a problem with Exel I'll work on.


Wednesday, January 11, 2012

GPS for Dead Reckoning Navigation

You hiked from the south to the hilltop in the SW corner. You want to make your way bushwacking to the camp in the NW corner. You have no waypoints in the GPS. The "trail" was drawn by me. There is no existing trail.


The following method is just the way I would do it. There probably other better ways. All the waypoints could be entered at the start, but I feel the chances of doing that without an error are small.

Rather than going in a direction until encountering an obstacle, I feel it is better to preplan a route before starting.

The first step would be to draw an azimuth (straight line) to the Camp. Since I can't walk on water, that obviously isn't going to work. There is no reason to measure the azimuth.

So, I started by drawing a "trail." I try to make it along contour lines as much as possible and to change altitude where the contour lines are furthest  apart. I also have an eye for terrain features I could orient myself with along the way. Sometimes it was just to get a nice view.

After drawing the trail, I put a tick mark every 1/10 mile. The next step is to make a list of bearings and distances. Don't forget to adjust for variation. Since doing this exercise, I've decided a protractor is part of my essential equipment. It could be done with just a compass, but it is very difficult.

Personally, I would write down all the bearings and distances before starting on the trail. As I get to each one, I'd mark it on the map and check it on the list.

I've added an extra column for 180 degrees out from the MH to use with the GPS in the next step. To prevent errors, it's probably worth taking the time to compute and write these down before starting..

Set up your trip summary screen so you can see the distance and bearing to the waypoint you are navigating to.

Mark the start as a waypoint and select 'goto" the start. (Point 1 in this example.) I know, you are already there. Then use your compass to site on something in a distance using the MH to the next waypoint.  Head in that direction. Be sure to check for reasonableness so you don't go 180 out. The first heading is 92.72.

As you walk, check your summary screen  for the bearing and distance to the start (point 1 in this example) adjusting as necessary. The bearing you are trying to maintain is the reciprocal of the MH to the next point.

When you get the next waypoint, stop. Using 002 as an example, your bearing will be 272.22 and the dist 0.1 miles to waypoint 1. Mark that as a waypoint and do it again.

This takes practice. It can be practiced anywhere using shorter distances.

Once you get proficient doing it with a GPS, you can practice with just a compass and pacing using terrain features to assist in orientation along the way, this sort of navigation can be very accurate. Until it's practiced once or twice, it seems very confusing. After, it's real simple.

Now, let's see how the trail routing was. The video motion is in steps, so the video appears to stop and start.